Light Watch Interpretation Of Big But Not Important Wisdom

In the trend of large dials, the first problem that watchmakers need to solve is not to allow the large dials to carry more complex functions, but to prevent people from wearing large dials. Feeling too burdened. As a result, more and more watch brands have begun to make a fuss about weight, implementing a comprehensive weight loss plan from the case to the movement, explaining the wisdom of ‘big but not heavy’. In the field of high-end mechanical watches, people’s respect for large dials has reached its peak in recent years. It is no new thing for men’s watches to exceed 40 mm, and women’s dials have more and more exceeded the traditional male watch standard. Mm. The dial is getting bigger and heavier. In this situation, more and more watch brands have begun to make a fuss about weight and implement a comprehensive weight loss plan.
Learn from the aerospace industry. This 45 mm diameter watch is atmospheric enough, but the weight of nearly 200 grams made my wrist sore after wearing it for a day. Mr. Li, who is engaged in architectural design, just bought a high-end brand stainless steel mechanical watch. He admits that because of his long desk drawing and overweight watches that made him feel uncomfortable, he had to change to wearing a rubber material. Lightweight watch. ‘To make a watch big but not heavy, lightweight materials are undoubtedly the best choice. In the early days, due to cost considerations, the mechanical watchmaking industry made steel replace precious metals such as gold and silver as the raw materials of watch cases. Steel materials are still used by many watches today. However, the main problem with steel is that it is not possible to ensure that the case has sufficient hardness and is prone to scratches. Therefore, many brands have begun to develop new materials. At this time, lightweight materials such as titanium and carbon fiber used in aerospace technology have appeared. Commentator Ding Zhifang said.
Panerai introduced the classic 47mm diameter Luminor 1950. Its case is made of matte titanium and equipped with a polished bezel and sapphire crystal case back. A panoramic view of the power reserve display. The buckle is also made of matte titanium, because this material is lightweight, strong and extremely low allergy. ‘Titanium has unparalleled superiority, it is 43% lighter than stainless steel, has excellent overall corrosion resistance, extremely low thermal conductivity and electrical conductivity. More and more brands have brought titanium into the laboratory. And try to add and subtract it with different materials, and continue to introduce new materials. ‘Watch fan Liu Ye said, for example, tungsten and titanium alloys are smooth and bright, and are used in many fashion watches; the combination of titanium and ceramics is also In recent years, breakthroughs have been made to ensure the gloss of ceramics while enhancing the hardness. It is respected by brands such as Radar and Chanel and has become the material used in its iconic models.
Hublot ‘All Carbon Fiber’ Minute Repeater
After titanium, carbon fiber has also been widely used in watches. This is a microcrystalline graphite material obtained by carbonization and graphitization of organic fibers. It has excellent mechanical properties-the specific gravity is less than 1/4 of steel, and the tensile strength is 7-9 times that of steel. It is important that it does not deform like metal when impacted. Right now, each brand has begun a new round of water testing of carbon fiber. Hublot watchmaker Mattias Bout designed a ‘full carbon fiber’ minute repeater that uses carbon fiber for both the case and the main plate of the movement to prove the superior plasticity of the carbon fiber material. ‘Carbon fiber can be made thinner. For watches of the same size, the internal space of the carbon fiber case will be larger, providing watchmakers with more inspiration.’ Matthias Bute said.
‘Watching and weighing’ on the movement is a very complicated issue. It is closely related to the material of the case, the bracelet and other components, as well as the size, thickness and structure of the movement. To reduce the weight of the watch , It is not only the ‘surface’ work, but also the ‘inner force’ of the brand. ‘Ding Zhifang said.
On how to reduce the weight of the movement, major brands have their own secrets. Some brands choose to start with materials and structures, such as carbon fiber and titanium alloy materials, and then hollow out unnecessary parts to reduce the weight of the movement. The Jaeger-LeCoultre 175 manual winding movement is one of the masterpieces. The tourbillon that rotates once a minute inside is made of titanium. It weighs only 0.14 grams and is lightweight and agile.
‘And some other brands work directly from the thickness. But making ultra-thin watches is not easy. The complexity of making them is as complicated as a three-question, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, month and other complex functions. All of the ultra-thin movements Parts, such as bridges, gears, balances, and springs, are much thinner than ordinary models. Without excellent design and manufacturing technology, it is impossible to make ultra-thin timepieces that are accurate and durable. ‘Ding Zhifang said .
The Jaeger-LeCoultre brand with strong movement research and development capabilities has launched this year a super-thin power reserve display master series watch. This watch takes into account the ruggedness while keeping it as thin as possible, and finally creates a machine with a thickness of only 4.9 mm. Core, and put it into a case with a total thickness of only 9.85 mm, which has the same thinness, and this model became a best-selling model once it was launched.
Piaget Altiplano skeleton ultra-thin watch
Piaget also has the tradition of making ultra-thin watches. This year, it launched the Altiplano skeleton ultra-thin watch, equipped with the world’s thinnest self-winding skeleton movement (2.4 mm). The overall thickness of the watch is only 5.34 mm, which is the challenge. ‘Chinese people are generally not as tall as those in Europe and the United States, but they like designs that are large enough. Therefore, avant-garde and simple ultra-thin watches are in line with the aesthetic tastes of Chinese people. Such watches have always been hot-selling models in the Chinese market.’ Liu赟 This analysis.
的 Exploration of independent watchmaker brand. Some people in the industry assert that the development of high-end watches will pay more and more attention to the comfort of wearing. In the future, the heavy discomfort will be replaced by almost no weight. Many independent designer brands have more comprehensive weight reduction plans in weight and have launched ultra-lightweight models that challenge the limit. These ingenious designs, although they have not yet been mass-produced, also represent the development direction of high-end watches.
Richard Mille RM027
Richard Mille is the most typical practitioner of lightweight watches. The brand claims that lightweight watches have become the main development direction. ‘In order to meet the needs of professional athletes, we have created several extremely light and sturdy watches, such as RM006 (excluding the strap weighing 42 grams), RM009 (excluding the strap weighing 29 grams), and specially developed for tennis star Nadal The RM027 manufactured, the entire watch (without the strap) weighs only about 13 grams. Compared with other watches that weigh hundreds of grams, most of our watches (without the strap) are less than 50 grams. Lighter, ‘said Claudia, a Richard Miller publicist.
In order to make RM027, the watchmaker’s team starts with the material. The case is made of composite carbon fiber material, and the extra parts are removed as much as possible. The heaviest movement, the bottom plate is made of titanium and a special alloy named ‘Lital’. It is not only lightweight, but also has good flexibility and shock resistance. With this material, the movement weighs only 3.83 grams. The case is lighter and the weight of the movement is saved. The rest is a sapphire crystal. Finally, they found an alternative mirror material from the F1 car. In order to achieve the lightweight goal, the internal structure of RM027 has been greatly simplified, but it still has a number of patented mechanisms built in. For example, an automatic bouncing balance wheel is used to enhance the shock resistance. A six-hour fast-rotating clockwork drum is provided to provide stability Power.
‘It needs to be reminded that the new material has not been used for a long time and the physical properties need to be examined. And if the movement is made too thin, many complex functions such as tourbillons cannot be achieved. In general, extremely lightweight watches are Performance still needs time to test. ‘Ding Zhifang concluded.