In 2015 Tudor Tudor equipped a self-made movement in the new model of North Flag and the modification of Pelagos, which became one of the biggest news of the ’15 year watch exhibition; Tudor wants to make its own movement, technology It will not cause people to worry. After all, its backup is extremely powerful. The focus is on whether to do it and how to do it.
In the impression, I heard for the first time in recent years that TUDOR mentioned that the word ‘homemade’ should be the time when the Advisor alarm clock was launched in 2011.Although this basic movement is still ETA 2892, the alarm mode added on it The group was developed by Tudor independently. At that time, some watch fans expressed optimism. Although it was not too early to start expecting them to launch their own movement, it always showed that the brand’s production system had penetrated deeply. Under the market. In 2015, Tudor equipped its own movement in the new model of North Flag and the modification of Pelagos.This is not a surprise from the long-term industry trends and the role of the Rolex Group, but once it happens, it is still It instantly attracted the attention of everyone and became one of the biggest news in the ’15 year watch exhibition.
Tudor wants to make its own movement, which is technically not worrying. After all, as a member of the Rolex Group, the backup is extremely powerful. The focus is on whether to do it and how to do it. The North Flag is completely new. It makes sense to make a debut for the new movement. The more curious is the Pelagos, which is replaced by a general-purpose movement. The price of the Pelagos of the homemade movement version is less than 300 US dollars compared with the general movement version.It can almost be said that it is being upgraded at the same price, which has caused great damage to other brands in the same range, or even slightly higher ranges. Pressure, if only from the perspective of C / P value, I am afraid that Tudor has become the strongest brand in the price range of 20,000 yuan.
On the other hand, after Pelagos, everyone is also guessing whether Tudor will further replace the homemade movements for other existing models, such as Black Bay. As a result, the brand gave us the answer in 2016. The new batch of Black Bay is not the same In addition to the smallest BB36, the 56-series self-made movement was completely replaced, and suddenly the ‘self-control’ of Tudor became a positive and menacing fact.
However, if Tudor wants to further self-control, it may face several issues. Basically, the three-pin model should be equipped with the 56 series.The problem is other complicated functions.At present, Tudor’s chronograph mainly has 7753 and 2892 plus DD modules.The 56 series can also theoretically rely on The way to install the module becomes a chronograph movement. The problem is that it has a thickness of 6.5mm when the three hands are added. If the chronograph module is added, it may approach 10.0mm, compared to 7.9mm and 2792 for 7753. + 6.9mm of DD is not so easy to seamlessly connect, so free up more space from the inside of the case, look for a thinner chronograph module, or simply make a native chronograph movement becomes the most feasible for Tudor Several options, and with the brand’s timekeeping styles, this is definitely the most pressing issue that they may even be dealing with
[Detail 01] 4 current models
In addition to the new 2016 model installed on Black Bay, the 56 series currently has four models, namely 5621 of North Flag, 5612 of Pelagos, 5601 of BB copper shell version, and 5602 of BB general version. Functionally, 5621 is the most complete, including the three-pin, date, and power reserve display. 5612 has no energy storage display below, and 5601 and 5602 have only three-pin. If the diameter of the movement is also taken into account, they The numbering logic may be one digit for size, 1 for large diameter, 2 for small diameter, ten digits for function, 1 for date, 2 for energy storage display, and 0 for nothing.
[Detail 02] Speed adjusting screw and silicon hairspring
The movement’s balance wheel set uses a straddling balance wheel bridge, a speed-adjusting screw balance, and a silicon spring with no card holder. The parts of the bridge and the speed-adjusting screws are easily reminiscent of Rolex, but the design of the two screws is not the same.To reduce the wind resistance, Rolex is locked on the inside of the balance ring. Into the balance ring, wind resistance can also be avoided. The part of the silicon hairspring is more interesting.Although Rolex was one of the earliest watch factories in the industry to invest in silicon material development, several of the main models still use Parachrom alloy materials, but some women’s watches and Tudor are the first to use silicon gossamer.
[Detail 03] Application of different sizes
The two diameters of the 56 series are 33.8 and 31.8mm, which are considered to be oversized. If you look at the BB in 2016, the 43mm copper case version is a large version, and the 41mm general version is a small version.The size of the movement seems to follow the table diameter, but the North Flag was only 40mm. It is also a large model, which is not necessarily the case. The presence or absence of the date and energy storage display theoretically affects the thickness. However, the current thickness of the four models is 6.5mm. If their substrates are drilled with the same holes regardless of their functions, it is possible to reserve the same groove In this way, it means that the substrate is universal.
[Detail 04] Emerging standards recognized as practical
There are no new inventions in the 56 series on the basic structure, but most of them are currently recognized as practical emerging standards.It provides about 70 hours of power reserve with a single barrel.The automatic winding is naturally two-way.It is important to emphasize that its automatic disk Ball bearings are used. Although this is already a common feature, Rolex’s 31 series is still not used. The polished part is flat and nothing significant, the whole is neat blasted, but currently there is only the North Flag one with a transparent bottom cover, and there are not many opportunities to see it, generally maintaining the Rolex family Simple and durable style.
[Detail 05] Observatory certification
The usage of the 56 series is as described above. At present, the models equipped with it have passed the observatory certification. Although Tudor used to have a fairly good accuracy even in the past, it is of great significance (and cost). Under the condition that even Tudor is gradually moving towards the accuracy of the observatory, Rolex is bound to go to another level, so in 2016 they launched their own ‘Superlative Chronometer’ to show the difference. Models equipped with the 56 series will be marked with C.O.S.C. related words on the faceplate. This is a fairly recognizable detail, and it may become a basis for distinguishing new and old versions in the future.
Stainless steel material / MT5621 self-winding movement / hours, minutes, seconds, date display / power storage display / C.O.S.C. certification / sapphire crystal, bottom cover / waterproof 100 meters / diameter 40mm / reference price: contact us
Titanium material / MT5612 self-winding movement / hour, minute, second display / C.O.S.C. Certification / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 500 meters / diameter 42mm / reference price: call
Heritage Black Bay Bronze
Aluminum-copper alloy, bronze PVD stainless steel / MT5601 self-winding movement / hours, minutes, seconds display / C.O.S.C. certification / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 200 meters / diameter 43mm / reference price: contact us