Month: February 2012

Roger Dubuis Millésime ‘retro’ Craftsmanship

ROGER DUBUIS Roger Dubuis has long been committed to maintaining and repairing classic timepieces in the fine watchmaking tradition, and continues to inject new vitality into the proud watch heritage. In order to leave an extraordinary mark on the brand’s 20th anniversary, the only watch factory in the world with the Geneva mark on all timepieces has launched a unique restoration plan: the Millésime watch series, which is added to its Hommage series Magnificent banner.

Roger Dubuis will launch a series of unique 21st century timepieces based on antique-based movements. Its first watch is proud to debut this year.

As the name of the new series indicates, ROGER DUBUIS will launch a unique ‘retro’ timepiece every year, creating with a unique appearance to show the richness of restoration art. These exclusive timepieces will only be sold at ROGER DUBUIS boutiques, and will complement each other’s openings, becoming a landmark event in the development of the brand’s sales network. Under this significant task, the watch factory will use ancestral methods to repair a series of antique basic movements, and upgrade and upgrade them to meet the specifications of the 21st century Geneva mark, and become a limited edition outstanding watch series. All Millésime watches will be equipped with a perpetual calendar. Some perpetual calendars exist alone, and some are paired with the other three most complicated and meticulous watch complications.

Through the dial, you can see the multi-level mechanical beauty of the complex function movement.

When Roger. When Mr. Du Bi described his watchmaking career, people were always involuntarily attracted by his love and deep mission for authentic traditional watches. Whether it was the restoration of a complex watch in the Galerie d’Horlogerie Ancienne professional watch auction company in the early days (or the predecessor of the Antiquorum auction company), or the big complication of a Geneva watchmaker The department is dedicated to creating semi-finished movements (also known as whiteboard movements or basic movements), or is committed to the establishment of the Groupement Genevois des Cabinotiers in Geneva, Roger. Mr. Du Bi spares no effort to continue to contribute his enthusiasm and skill, just like the guardian of watchmaking profession. ‘Clock repair made my character.’ Roger. Mr. Du Bi said, ‘What could be more touching and exciting than following the footsteps of watchmakers in another era? I have always been full of admiration and deep respect for their works, strict discipline and superior intelligence. Their purpose The main purpose is to ensure that those of us who are dedicated to exquisite machinery can continue to appreciate and enjoy the superb beauty of the masterpieces of timepieces, whether they are new creations or historic works. Now we want these outstanding works and peerless skills Handed down.’
Origin of the Millésime concept
This unique chapter in the extraordinary world of ROGER DUBUIS originated in 2001, only a few years after the brand was founded in 1995, when Roger. Mr. Dupee has purchased some semi-finished movements and intends to upgrade them to meet the strict requirements of the Geneva Seal. His first timepiece, repaired on the basis of the RD60 movement, was sold for one million Swiss francs. The restoration plan was subsequently put on hold, and it was not reopened until he returned to the company a few years later. In order to celebrate and commemorate the 20th anniversary of the brand in a unique way in 2015, ROGER DUBUIS has launched this restoration project again to pay tribute to ancient watchmaking skills. This plan incorporates the basic movements that the brand founder and the ‘Soul Master’ originally retained into the Hommage series of timepiece creations, with the intention of creating a unique set of watches that retain the design features of the Hommage series.

Open the back cover of the pocket watch, letting you see the mechanical beauty of the Hommage Millésime movement

These exclusive timepieces will only be available in ROGER DUBUIS stores and will be launched in conjunction with the opening of some flagship stores. Every year, a Millésime watch is released, becoming an annual event that connoisseurs and collectors are looking forward to. The common point that runs through these outstanding reproductions is that all timepieces are engraved with the precious Geneva mark and are equipped with a perpetual calendar. Some perpetual calendars exist alone, and some choose to match one of the other three major horological complications: minute repeater , Tourbillon or chronograph. Every watch will use Roger. The movement that was gifted by Mr. Du Bi, and repaired with the most orthodox craftsmanship and technology. Millésime timepieces use a movement that is not new and complete. Therefore, just like repairing a painting that is damaged or needs to be reconstructed, these ancient movements must be completely restored in an ancestral manner in order to harmonize with the original structure, and sometimes even need to remanufacture the missing parts.
 At the same time, because these movements must meet the requirements of the Geneva Seal, they have been upgraded to add extreme value. In order to comply with the latest guidelines of the Geneva Seal, which require that the entire timepiece be implemented inside and outside the watch, not just the function of the movement, ROGER DUBUIS must bring a 19th-century movement to the highest quality standards of the 21st century. , So that it not only has perfect technical performance, but also helps the watch as a whole to reach the state of exquisiteness.

Roger. Mr. Du Bi, the founder of the brand

The first Millésime watch will be a symbolic gift for the new ROGER DUBUIS Geneva store opened in July 2015. At this time, the watch is equipped with the RD181 basic movement, which is Roger. The semi-finished movements of the late 19th century and early 20th century that Mr. Dubi himself found from antique watches originally included the functions of the minute repeater, perpetual calendar and chronograph.
ROGER DUBUIS launched this exquisite pocket watch with a diameter of 60 mm in 2015, turning the RD181 movement into a unique collection, thereby paying tribute to the founder of the brand. . Signature of Mr. Du Bi. The owner of this pocket watch can personalize it and transform the different links of the bracelet into a series of small plaques made of 5N rose gold that can be engraved with personal information. In addition, the back cover of the pocket watch can also carry unique signatures and personalized inscriptions according to customer requirements. Of the 1,950 hours occupied by the RD181 movement during the two-year R & D and manufacturing period, 700 hours were used for repair work. Its perpetual calendar has been modified to accommodate two callback pointer displays, reminiscent of the earliest perpetual calendar models developed and produced by ROGER DUBUIS.
The countless individual frames, including some special decorations, gathered by this watch come from the hands of different experts, who not only have superb skills, but also must have a comprehensive understanding of the overall requirements. This movement with a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, its main splint, crown and timekeeping mechanism have been damaged, and need to be carefully and carefully repaired in order to disassemble, repair, decorate and repair them without harming them. reassemble.

Repairing this movement requires a combination of 20 different professions and skills

The watchmaker has also redesigned a new element to form the lucky number 8 that ROGER DUBUIS is used to in all limited edition timepieces. This model’s round case is paired with a grooved bezel and is finished with contrasting satin brushed and polished finishes. The 5N rose gold-toned main splint is used directly as the dial, with blue hands, Guilloché engraved chronograph, satin-finished sun-finished dial, and perpetual calendar splint decorated with Guilloché engraved sun. Directly performing such detailed decorative art on the main splint, this rare technique exquisitely presents the aesthetic and technical achievements that ROGER DUBUIS prides itself on.
The Millésime watch, which belongs to the Hommage series, shows infinite admiration for the generations of watchmaking masters. They have created a proud tradition of mechanical clocks with superb craftsmanship. These Millésime works also praise the founder of the brand and also the motivator of this timepiece series. Roger. Mr. Du Bi’s precious heritage. The Millésime watch continues the spirit of the entire Hommage collection. It is a timepiece created for enthusiasts of fine watchmaking and fully meets the quality standards of the most prestigious precision certification Geneva mark. It not only shows the classic watchmaking art like Guilloché engraving, but also reflects the bold combination of tradition and modern art.

RD181 movement-the first watch of the new generation

Like all ROGER DUBUIS timepieces, the entire movement of this watch is certified by the Geneva Seal, and each component is carefully crafted in accordance with the aesthetic standards of this authoritative certification body for excellence Quality sets the highest benchmark. This watch brings together twenty different professional skills in one, not only showing the beautiful realm of innocence in decoration and refinement, but also achieving outstanding performance in terms of technical indicators beyond the group: through a week of wearing simulation, complete one The precision test of the minute difference completely meets the requirements of the new Geneva mark standard. This test is even more rigorous for a pocket watch that is more than a century old, and it is an extraordinary feat to achieve such an achievement. Roger. When he founded ROGER DUBUIS, he decided to provide an ideal environment for fine watchmaking, so that his passion and enthusiasm for watches could flourish. Roger. With the ideal of accomplishing a great cause, Mr. Du Bi never chooses shortcuts. He hopes that the brand can relentlessly pursue progress, innovation, superb performance and perfect quality. Watch restoration and the Millésime concept are the ultimate expression of these timeless values.